Are there ways to make the skin on my fingers last longer while climbing/bouldering?

Question

My main problem when bouldering and sometimes while climbing is, that after some time the skin/flesh of my middle and lower phalanges start to hurt and the skin comes off so further climbing becomes nearly impossible. The timespan until this happens differes and I can't see any progression over time or that bigger timespans between my climbing sessions would lead to better conditions. It seems to me that this isn't a problem of training, but of poor preparation/condition which lead to a bad form of the day for my fingers.

So my question would be, is there anything I can do between the days of climbing to strengthen and prepare my finger skin/flesh to make it last longer?

Also related How to take care of climbing hands? tough skin is one thing, tough skin that peels off is another! — , Jan 19 '18 at 09:21
The first one is about strength which I'm not missing, the second seems to match my needs. Thank you — Gistiv, Jan 19 '18 at 09:37
Yeah, I saw the answer doesn't quite answer the question being asked so I've added an additional one that probably covers your question better https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/a/18273/2766 — , Jan 19 '18 at 09:51

score -2 · Answer 1 · answered Jan 19 '18 at 22:55

There are some things that can prevent the skin from tearing off and getting the so-called "flappers":

First, learn to control your center of gravity and your contact points with the wall so that you can make as many moves as possible statically:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lfH_S2LTEXA

Because dynamic moves tend to result in stronger peak forces you need to absorb with your hands and your skin.

Second, avoid over-gripping large holds:

Overgripping results in more lateral forces on the skin of your fingers, which increases the chance of flappers.

Are there ways to make the skin on my fingers last longer while climbing/bouldering?

1 Answers1