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I'm considering an under-the hood light as I regularly check my oil when getting gas and sometimes it's just hard to see. As I understand the product picture below it seems like the electrical connection is very close to the body of the vehicle -- the spade connector on the hood pin will always have a 12v potential against the body of the vehicle. There's sufficient resistance from the LED that it wouldn't be an open short, but still not ideal (at least as far as I understand electricity).

Is there a better style hood-open switch, or am I misunderstanding the characteristics of this setup?

enter image description here

Sidney
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    If it were me I'd keep a head torch in the car instead of installing this lights - you can't change a tire in the dark with that lamp. – GdD Dec 13 '23 at 21:21
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    Is that a fuse holder pictured in-line with the wiring? That would reduce my worry a lot. What you don't want is for accidental damage to the device or its wiring to cause a short between 12V and ground. That could start a fire. A fuse would protect against that. – Wayne Conrad Dec 14 '23 at 02:47
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    @WayneConrad And the ideal setup would be rather than wiring directly to the battery, wire it to an already-fuse-protected circuit. – manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact Dec 14 '23 at 16:28
  • Or (@GdD) a lighter-socket inspection lamp, especially if your lighter socket is always-on (mine was, but I fitted a relay to change that). – Chris H Dec 14 '23 at 16:29
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    @WayneConrad but isn't the fuse holder in the negative lead? I'd definitely want it in the +12V for the risk you mention – Chris H Dec 14 '23 at 16:31
  • A light with an independent power source is best @ChrisH, that way if there's a battery or power issue you can still use the light. – GdD Dec 14 '23 at 17:14
  • @GdD true. I'm used to a campervan with a 2nd battery - that I could even remove easily, as well as keeping a torch (actually an old bike light) charged via a USB socket – Chris H Dec 19 '23 at 10:11

1 Answers1

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TL DR: It shouldn't be a concern whatsoever.

If the switch is like any other of this type, the idea is for the hood to come down and press down on it, and thus disconnecting the grounding source. In order to do this, it is mounted in an area, like the core support (cross piece where the radiator sits) where the hood can come in contact with it. You set the height of the switch (thus the threads and nuts associated with it in the body of the switch) so it will just contact the hood as it comes down. Other than the plunger, the switch itself doesn't move. This means when you set the switch in place, you can place it so the spade terminal doesn't come in contact with any other metal part of the car. And, if it suits you, you could also put some heat shrink or what have you over the area where the spade terminal is at, thus further preventing any grounding which may occur. If something did come in contact with the spade terminal, the worst which would happen is the light would come on.

As an alternative, most newer cars already have a switch under the hood which tells the driver if the hood is open prior to taking off (just like a door ajar or trunk lid open). If your vehicle is setup with this already, you could possibly tie into it to get a signal that the hood is open. It'd take extra wiring and configuring, plus you couldn't directly power your light through it as the plunger switch would, but it would do the same basic job and wouldn't entail placing another switch. Just a thought.

Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2
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    Since the switch is disconnecting the negative supply to the LEDs, the worst thing that can happen is that the LEDs come on even when the hood is closed. – HandyHowie Dec 13 '23 at 17:54
  • @HandyHowie - You're exactly right and I was thinking of it the other way around. I'll adjust my answer accordingly. TY :o) – Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 Dec 13 '23 at 17:57
  • You might be able to power a light directly from it, depending on the switch type. Door alarm switches typically close (turn on) when the door is open as did old courtesy light switches. – Chris H Dec 14 '23 at 16:35