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Included video is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iorvSoMjvaA&feature=youtu.be

The reason for pausing to start is for the glow plugs (diesel van).

Battery is OK! I tested myself and at an auto parts store. No problems at all with the battery.

Description: When turning the key, I can hear a click from the engine bay (I believe this is the solenoid, but the starter motor either does not engage, or just barely turns the motor over).

This is an intermittent problem! It first occurred over a month ago. It can go weeks without having any problem, then it happens all the time.

The trick I used to finally get it to start: I turned the key 90% to full, then released to 30% of turn, an turned back to 100%. This "double-turn-without-release" trick, whatever it does, seems to usually be successful in starting the car--I have no idea why, though!

Edit: I forgot to mention this: The problem seems to occur only on the first attempt to start the car for the day. After I've got it started and everything warmed up, starting it again has had a higher success rate. It is still intermittent, though, sometimes it still shows this problem when warm, but the likelihood appears to be much less.

Second edit: Tested starting the motor with a voltmeter. The starter motor is getting 12volts on successful starts, but getting less than that when it is not starting.

SteveRacer
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Drawninpictures
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    Nice question +1 – DucatiKiller Aug 18 '16 at 05:51
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    Seems like theres not enough power provided to starter... – user3188168 Aug 18 '16 at 05:55
  • @user3188168, agreed, now if we can help figure out why… – dlu Aug 18 '16 at 09:41
  • Does the starter get hot when it's having a hard time turning over? – Tim Brigham Aug 18 '16 at 13:01
  • Year, Make and Model of Van? – Moab Aug 18 '16 at 22:31
  • @Moab it is a 2003 Kia Pregio Diesel van. – Drawninpictures Aug 19 '16 at 03:02
  • I added this edit to the post: I forgot to mention this: The problem seems to occur only on the first attempt to start the car for the day. After I've got it started and everything warmed up, starting it again has had a higher success rate. It is still intermittent, though, sometimes it still shows this problem when warm, but the likelihood appears to be much less. – Drawninpictures Aug 19 '16 at 03:05
  • What temperature outside is it when you attempt to start? Does this happen even after the vehicle has been running for a while? On my diesel (Ford Powerstroke), I sometimes do the same "start trick" when it's very cold out (cycling key twice to the ON but not START position), because I know I have some glow plugs that are marginal. However, if you can repeat this problem even with a warm engine, the glow plugs are not an issue. If simply "fiddling" with the ignition key makes it start every time, then the problem is surely in the ignition switch contacts. – SteveRacer Aug 23 '16 at 10:32
  • Thanks Steve for the response. It appears to occur more often only after being shut off overnight. Once it has been started once during the day and it is warmed -- it seems like both of those factors decrease the likelihood of the problem occurring. – Drawninpictures Aug 25 '16 at 04:39
  • Can you try starting the van using a wrench or screwdriver to jump the starter solenoid? That would eliminate the starter control circuit, allowing you to isolate the problem to the starter motor. I'm wondering if you have a problem like a hanging brush on the starter or a sticking solenoid. – dlu Aug 27 '16 at 00:22
  • When the tach bumps and drops to zero are you still holding the key? In other words are you expecting the starter keep cranking at that point? How hard is it to pull the starter motor? – dlu Aug 27 '16 at 00:24
  • Hey dlu thanks for comments. When the tack is jumping up and back down I am holding the key in the full-turn-to-start position, it drops back down despite holding the key all the way to the right. – Drawninpictures Aug 27 '16 at 03:25
  • @dlu I don't know how to start the starter motor with a screwdriver - I am Google searching how to do this now. Unfortunately my vehicle is an underseat setup so the starter motor is underneath the car, but I will try to do it. – Drawninpictures Aug 27 '16 at 03:27
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    Well after seeing the dash in video and missing the make/model type. I had to look at the Pregio and engine type and such out of curiosity. In looking at various pictures and models to just see what it was all about, I stumbled on to checking the POWER RELAY in fuse box. Found postings saying to smack it a few times if it works then replace it. – spicetraders Aug 27 '16 at 04:08
  • Thanks @spicetraders I will look at that, I didn't find that on Google – Drawninpictures Aug 30 '16 at 06:16
  • Same problem at my kia pregio right now – Nazly Mar 04 '17 at 12:16
  • @Nazly the problem was the solenoid contacts. I took it to an auto electrician, took the starter off myself, and he was able to repair the solenoid contacts for around $50. I then put it back on myself and have never had any problem since. It appears to be a very common problem. I replaced the starter motor and the replacement starter had the same exact behavior. – Drawninpictures Mar 13 '17 at 02:53

3 Answers3

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This sounds like the starter core is sticking. Use a long metal stick (screwdriver, piece of tubing, etc) and hit the side of the starter with it multiple times before turning it on. Try and start it. If you notice a difference then you can go ahead and remove it and have it tested further.

race fever
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Could just be a poor connection.. Check the battery terminals are secure and making proper contact, also check main battery connection terminals at the starter end too. You may just have a bad connection. Also check the engine earth cable for a good contact between engine and body.

Orb
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  • Thank you for the reply. The battery connections appear solid, clean. I will pickup a multimeter at an auto-parts store and attempt to check the voltage at the connections to the starter motor. I can also look for and visually inspect the engine earth cable. Is am I on the right track - it's relatively straight forward like this? – Drawninpictures Aug 19 '16 at 05:21
  • Been a while since I updated this. I still have this intermittent problem, and I did check the voltage at the starter motor, which is getting 12.5 volts. – Drawninpictures Sep 24 '16 at 16:31
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I am assuming it is a ford E-series diesel van with dual batteries.
While you can read proper voltage on the batteries in the vehicle (they are hooked in parallel) they have to be disconnected from the heavy cables to fully check. They also have to be externally charged fully and then load tested for current and voltage checks at the same time.
I had tried when my batteries failed, which here is about every two years, on my F-series to test in the truck while hooked up. But you just can not check for proper current loading while in the truck. Very likely one battery is not putting out good current and under load drags the system down (battery number two). I have seen both in my truck and my sons truck where the battery will indicate good voltages and with a battery charger show a FULL charge and even will run the headlights. But just dies on the heavy current load of glow plugs and starter. I have even seen a failed battery load so bad that a jumped battery will not start the truck. Myself when it get to the state your video shows first thing I do is put in two new batteries.
I have taken the pulled batteries and been able to put one that is still good in a car and start the engine. Even have used the good battery out of the two my wife's car or my land crusier for another year. But if I only replace one battery leaving the "good" one in the truck it usually fails in a few months so if you find a need to replace one do both of them.

spicetraders
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