I don't have experience with this specific product, but reading the brochure, the Brewolution Brewster is a self-contained recirculating infusion mash system (RIMS) with a built-in 2kW heating element and a thermostatic controller. It also doubles as a kettle, and includes a counterflow chiller.
The amount of beer it can make depends on how strong or malty of a beer you are trying to brew, i.e. a strong or malty beer requires more grain in your mash. According to the brochure this system is intended to make as much as 25 liters of beer from 8kg of grain but you could make a bit less, so your 20 liter fermenters would be compatible with this thing if the brochure is accurate.
A note of caution about RIMS systems in general is that they have a fundamental limitation in how quickly they can heat a mash without scorching, which makes it difficult to do things like dough-in and heat to a predominantly alpha amylase conversion, or to do a predominantly beta amylase conversion and skip the beta amylase conversion before mashing out. In layman's terms, it's tricky to get a clear, strong, malty beer out of a RIMS system.
A note of caution about this system in particular is that as shown, it is apparently designed to return the heated, recirculated wort to the mash via the distribution ring, which aerates the wort a great deal, which is a bad thing, as it will give you off flavors.
Moving on, when you are finished with the mash, you apparently "raise the kettle sieve and sparge". It doesn't have any details about this step, but to do it right you must sparge gently with hot pH-adjusted water, not wort. They may tell you to gently pour hot water on the mash to sparge, which works but is not ideal as it disturbs the grain bed, or they may have a system that allows you to sparge using the distribution ring on top somehow, which would be great. Either way, I would assume you will want a separate lauter tun and plumbing to connect it to the distribution ring, none of which are included, and this step may be awkward, possibly dangerous, and will inevitably disturb the grain bed during the sparge, causing cloudiness, less than ideal efficiency and some off flavors.
After the boil you chill the wort through the counterflow chiller, which is the blue coil on the bottom. The brochure says it has a stainless steel tube which would be inside the blue hose. The stainless tube will have wort flowing out away from the mash tun, and cold tap water flowing through the outer hose in the opposite direction, i.e. toward the mash tun. Counterflow chillers work great as long as you have a system for getting the inside of the stainless tube extremely clean between brews.