I think this can be much simpler than the steel frame. I think that two aluminum rails and some steel close to the post will work. My knee jerk reservation is that the gate will warp out of plane. You push on the top and the bottom sits there like a lump and then follows after a lag time. You close the gate and it naturally deforms out of plane to look dilapidated. For exposition purposes, imagine assembling this gate from the post out to the free edge of the gate.
First you've got your two hinges. Move one hinge, the other just sits there. Alone, the hinges provide no warping resistance to the free edge. Welding a vertical steel bar between the hinges, you synchronize their movement. When one hinge moves, so too must the other. The torsional stiffness of this vertical steel bar determines just how synchronized the hinges are. Zero stiffness? No synchronicity. Infinite stiffness? Perfect synchronicity. This bar is so close to the post that it contributes very little to the post's toppling load. This location, then, is the ideal location for heavy components.
Now moving on to the gate's rails, where I propose constructing these rails out of aluminum. The problem is transferring the stiffness of your synchronized hinges out to the gate's free edge. In the limit, perfectly flexible connections between the aluminum and steel are new unsynchronized hinges. I propose a steel connection plate welded to the vertical bar for each of the rails. If the steel overlaps, say 8" of the rail, then bolts will maintain a nice tight connection. The thickness and height of these steel plates will determine how much force applied at the gate's free edge would permanently bend them. I can provide sizes for these steel plates later that match the bending strength of the rails. Any strength beyond that is wasteful.
It's tempting to put a vertical member out at the gate's free edge, but way out at the edge is the least efficient place for that. The biggest problem to my mind is the curving of green fence pickets as they bake in the sun. My instinct is to compute the bending moment it takes to straighten a slightly curved board and add this as a stiffness constraint on the rail torsion. Maybe choose a slightly larger rail if a problem looks possible. It probably makes more sense, though, to just do some quality control on the boards. You don't have to wait for the boards to dry totally, but allow enough drying time so that the board outer fibers dry and can restrain movement as the rest of the board dries. Just a week or two makes a profound difference.
You should figure out what material you have access to:
1-1/2"x1/8" steel almost certainly works and gives you a budget of 50# for the stuff by the post as long as the net eccentricity is 4".
1-1/2"x1/8" aluminum probably works and gives you a budget of 240# for the stuff by the post as long as the net eccentricity is 4". This is for structural grade aluminum like 6061-T6, not "architectural" aluminum (which is weaker and more expensive, although manufactured to tighter dimensional tolerances kinda like cold rolled steel).