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My house came with a light switch installed on a concrete wall in the basement using a metal conduit, and a 1-gang metal box. Unfortunately, the light switch plate sticks out and it's easy to get caught on it. The previous owner installed some padding that looks hideous. How can I improve this?

light switch here

I've looked for better plates and couldn't find any. The conduit just goes to the underfloor of the main floor (it's not connected to anything else), and I could switch for something else. I was considering Wiremold light switches & raceways, but they don't look too good either. If possible, I'd prefer to keep the 1-gang metal box as it already has anchors drilled into the wall.

Thanks!

user142271
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    A true professional would have used traditional gray duct tape to blend in with the meal and smoothed it out for that high craftsman German engineered look. – Steve Wellens Oct 03 '21 at 04:47
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    Steal a plastic "tupperware" type box from the kitchen - cut a hole for the switch and that will save you clothes... – Solar Mike Oct 03 '21 at 10:27
  • Are you handy? Move the switch to somewhere less irritating. – MonkeyZeus Oct 04 '21 at 15:57
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    The switch itself looks like something out of a horror movie that takes place in an abandoned mental asylum. Why don't you simply get a nice new switch that is intended for surface mounting? Like this (first result off of Google: https://media.cablematic.com/sized/images_1000/ie00100-01-thumbnail-1080x1080-70.jpg). They're cheap and installation is simple. – Vilx- Oct 04 '21 at 20:46
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    @Vilx- the switch you have linked scares me more than the one above. If I went into a basement and saw that switch I would be almost certain it was for a trap door. – DMoore Oct 04 '21 at 21:18
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    @DMoore - WTF? That's a normal switch... Is this one of those USA-Europe things where each side of the ocean does things differently? – Vilx- Oct 04 '21 at 22:14
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    @DMoore Those US metal switchboxes (and metal conduit) give me the creeps. I'm always afraid some live wire is connected to the metal. That picture from Vilx is a bog-standard ip65 rated outdoor use switch that is used in most parts of Europe. All plastic on the outside. No chance of getting electrocuted. US electrical is VERY weird to most of us in the rest of the world. – Tonny Oct 05 '21 at 13:37
  • @Tonny There would have to be a lot wrong with a circuit in order for the box to be live and not have tripped a breaker. Our outlets (and non-fused extension cords) are the most unsafe part of our electrical system in my opinion. Europe has way better plugs and outlets. – Logarr Oct 05 '21 at 14:22
  • @Logarr Rationally I know there would have to be a lot wrong, but that doesn't help the more primitive part of my brain. US (and UK for that matter) outlets are really bad. Type A and B plugs are way to easy to partially pull out and be able to touch live contacts. It is fairly easy to slide a finger partially under the plug (e.g. to get better grip pulling it out) and accidentally touch the contact with your fingertip. Much more difficult with Schuko style plugs that are mostly used in Europe. Of course we do have type C, but at least the upper part of the contacts is isolated on those. – Tonny Oct 05 '21 at 15:10

7 Answers7

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The problem is, the last guy used a cover plate intended for flush mount boxes that are buried in drywall. Probably because they are mind-controlled into only shopping at big-box stores.

You need a cover plate intended for surface mount metal Handy-Boxes.

Talk to a real electrical supply, they will have it, and will know what you want.

Harper - Reinstate Monica
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    Hmm, my local Home Depot has the correct plates for this purpose, I just bought one a few months ago.. – element11 Oct 03 '21 at 15:58
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    I think this is what you want: https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-Gang-Toggle-Switch-Handy-Box-Cover-865/100095448 – DaveM Oct 03 '21 at 16:35
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    Odds are good that if you look, even the big-box stores will have them. Though, I fully support shopping at your local electrical supply places. – FreeMan Oct 04 '21 at 11:55
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    @DaveM the cover in your link is exactly what OP already has. The edges overhang the sides of the box just slightly. – jay613 Oct 04 '21 at 12:07
  • @element11 can you post a picture of your cover installed? – jay613 Oct 04 '21 at 12:17
  • There are flush-edge "crushed corner" covers for 4x4 boxes. Even they have slight overhang on the edges although they are not quite as snaggy as your one. And I haven't seen single-gang boxes and covers built this way. The only boxes I've seen with perfect flush-fitting fronts are the Wiremold ones. – jay613 Oct 04 '21 at 12:25
  • Definitely sell these at my local big blue and big orange... Have to buy them every time I add boxes to finished garages... Caveat... I have found that if you want these at big box you may not have the exact cutout you want. For instance you may have to buy a certain type of outlet shape. Also big boxes usually only have one option for these after single gang. – DMoore Oct 04 '21 at 21:15
  • I just notice'd that OP's cover is freakishly tall, it overhangs the top and bottom by about 15mm. This answer is correct in that you just need the correct cover. It's not correct about where you can buy it. Go buy the cover linked above by @DaveM for 79 cents. It overhangs all sides by about 3mm. – jay613 Oct 05 '21 at 13:42
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Easiest, if you can find it, is a proper sized plate, as Harper suggests. "I've looked for better plates and couldn't find any." - that is likely true at the big box (Home Depot/Lowes), simply because they only stock the higher-volume items. Every city - even those a bit too small for a big box store - has an electrical supply house. These places sell to electricians, contractors, etc. But almost all will sell to homeowners, at least for simple stuff. (They may, legitimately, be reluctant to sell a clearly amateur homeowner a full panel out of fear of liability and/or returns. Not an issue for a simple cover plate.) Even if they charge double for walk-in business, that's $ 2 instead of $ 1, so not a big deal.

Or just swap it for a bigger box. The knockout sizes are standard, so it should be no problem finding a match at any electrical supply house or big box and get a cover plate to match.

What you do not want to do is to switch to a plastic box (doesn't work so easily with conduit, and just doesn't make sense) or replace "everything". Wiremold/etc. is great for new installation, but all you need to replace here is the box and cover.

manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact
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    Note that a plastic box & cover, while potentially nicer to clothes, will be more susceptible to damage from heavy objects that may hit it. In addition to the fact that they don't work well/at all with conduit. – FreeMan Oct 04 '21 at 11:57
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Could you go for something wider, get round edges, and place for an outlet: Thomas & Betts RS18CC This is a combination GFI toggle plate.

Bryce
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    Actually, it is a combination Decora /toggle plate. It happens to be that standard GFCI receptacles use the same form factor as Decora receptacles and Decora switches. Yes, the location likely requires GFCI, but not necessarily, and GFCI could be provided in the breaker panel instead of at the receptacle. – manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact Oct 03 '21 at 04:30
  • These "crushed corner" covers come in all configurations including just a light switch. To my knowledge there are no one-gang versions. And importantly, they also have a bit of an overhang. Not as snaggy as OP's cover but not totally smooth either. – jay613 Oct 04 '21 at 15:30
  • @jay613 You could fill in the smaller gap with silicone bead or something - might even be a good idea if this location is exposed to moisture. This would prevent both snagging and water leaking in, while still allowing the plate to be easily removed later if needed. (Unlike epoxy or other strong glue - which would also fix the snagging problem but leave future owners cursing your name for sealing it shut.) – Darrel Hoffman Oct 05 '21 at 13:32
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Presumably it's about upper arm/shoulder height. By shortening the conduit, and thus moving the switch higher, it won't catch on anything. You'll get used to its new position after a few fumbled attempts to find its new position!

Tim
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  • Great idea - but it does depend what local code requires - some don't specify a height, some do. A switch at face height could be awful confusing in the dark. – Criggie Oct 06 '21 at 09:18
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    @Criggie - I just assumed that it would only be very few people who would be using a basement light switch - which actually would be better placed by the stairs down to the basement. – Tim Oct 06 '21 at 09:47
  • you're right, but code is code. If OP's location is not up to code then it should be relocated at this time. – Criggie Oct 06 '21 at 21:42
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Out of the box idea - add some shelving in addition to replacing the plate.
It's a basement/garage/storage area. Some shallow shelves can hold things like cans of paint or food or jars, and will move you away from the wall while passing.
Only downside is if this is a hallway where there is already limited space to the right of the photo.

It may be possible to buy a "shallower" switch and therefore a shallower surface mount box - really depends what's inside the box and whether it needs to be that deep. A pushbutton or capacitive switch would lose the toggle lever itself, every little bit helps.

Last resort might be to relocate the whole switch to somewhere with more space while remaining close to the entrance doorway (necessary to comply with code in many areas)
Depending on height above the floor, you might raise or lower the switch a bit too. Again height could be mandated by your local building codes.

If you know how thick the concrete wall is, it may be possible to carve out a recess and perhaps even flush mount a switch plate. If its an internal wall, cut a rectangular recess through and have a framed area, and the other room could have the same fix. If its an exterior wall, don't go through!
Risk here is exposing any reinforcing inside the wall, and the potential for shorting.

Or sidestep the problem completely and redo the lighting in the room using 12V LEDs. I've put a 12V light sensor system in one room and its marvellous, the lights even come on automatically on movement.

Criggie
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I wouldn't replace the cover plate. Id bury the entire switch in the wall. Concrete is not difficult to drill, and breaks quite easily after being drillled enough. You only need an inch deep for a light switch and backbox. Replace this monstrosity with an ordinary flush surface switch.

Update:

A comment asks what about risk of impacting integrity, especially as its a basement.It also asks about making a trench for the cable too. I'll comment on this below.

Good question but almost guaranteed zero risk.

It may be structural but that wall appears to be concrete block. Or if not, then it surely will be 100-150mm (4 - 6 inch) thickness, maybe more. In either case a 25mm (1 inch) backbox, will be no problem at all. There (probably) isnt such a thing as a concrete wall of this kind for a basement/cellar, where a backbox cutout or shallower conduit cutout would compromise waterproofing or structural strength. It's virtually impossible to imagine that being the case.

  1. Because it would imply a shockingly thin wall under 50mm thick, below ground. Which would crack and leak, and not be sufficient anyway.
  2. Because being an internal wall the design must anticipate screws and plastic plugs for them (or other wall fixings) being drilled/cutout anywhere, up to 50mm (2 inches) deep, already, as part of the design. One example being the hidden screws almost certainly holding the existing monstrosity to the wall....... :)

As for the cable, personally I'd bury it, but surface mount is an option.

If the OP is still truly nervous, one could bury the backbox and surface conduit the cable, or get a low profile surface box instead.

For burying, I'd suggest thin stainless steel tube/box section 15x8mm with 0.5-1mm wall off EBay (or shower rail tube from local shop!), as conduit, and a thin cement/mortar cover, to match rest of wall and protect the shallow buried cable. Stainless as below ground. Take care to seal any embedded electrics well on all sides, with a builders low modulus silicone mastic against water intrusion reaching the conduit and/or backbox, as it's below ground,if there is any risk. Or if not, surface mount a cable or low profile conduit, and a shallow surface mounted box.

But that monstrosity is better replaced than fixed, and probably cheaper to do so as well.

Stilez
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    Updating answer with comment on this.. – Stilez Oct 04 '21 at 08:25
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    Rent a concrete saw, disassemble the conduit & box, pull the cable out of the way, make a huge mess cutting concrete, potentially open the ceiling to adjust where the cable comes down from the ceiling, clean up massive concrete dust mess, move the box in the ceiling where wiring transitions to conduit/extend ceiling conduit to the new location in the wall, pull new wire because the existing wire is now too short to make the additional run, install conduit & box in the wall, patch concrete. OR buy a new cover plate designed for a Handy Box. Hmmm... – FreeMan Oct 04 '21 at 12:01
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    For a new install? Yes, 100%, put the conduit & boxes in the walls. For a retrofit for an average DIYer? Not so much. – FreeMan Oct 04 '21 at 12:01
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    Downvoting because chasing boxes and conduit into concrete in an unfinished residential basement as a way of achieving minor aesthetic improvement is A) not answering the Question, and B) a monumental waste of effort. – jay613 Oct 04 '21 at 12:15
  • @jay613 - The OP states they want ways to improve it. Are you seriously saying that burying it or a flush replacement would not be a way to improve it? Its also "unfinished", suggesting this is a perfect time to do so - before its renovated and finished. This answer perfectly matches the question - the rest (your B) is merely your own assumptions about the OPs criteria, which are in fact for the OP to state, not us to presume. I'd chase and bury in a heartbeat. Why should I assume the OP wouldn't? Why would you assume so, to the point of downvoting valid answers based on that assumption? – Stilez Oct 04 '21 at 14:49
  • You know, you're right. I hate this answer but it's an answer, and it's something people do and I'm actually sold on the fact that you love it. Maybe for someone who manages to snag himself on his light switch all the time it's a good answer :) Downvote withdrawn. – jay613 Oct 04 '21 at 15:28
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    Tjanks! FWIW, my personal rationale is, i have to live there an indefinite number of years, maybe a long time. Chasing is pretty fast, 2 or 3 hours max even for an amateur, and an unfinished room doesn't need wallpaper, paint, plaster or other making good, just vacuuming dust and a dab of mortar. The time it takes to chase vs. any other solution, is trivial compared to my long term enjoyment increase. Surface fix is even quicker. So I'd do it. – Stilez Oct 04 '21 at 16:12
  • @FreeMan - bolster and hammer, masonry drill....dont assume the OP can't/wont have tools or be able to, or even may add it to a list of fixes for their contractor to do for them. The OP asked for improvements, its significant they didnt limit or stipulate what they felt able to do...... so lets not assume things like "rent a concrete saw" - This job doesnt need one. Lets not assume "clean up massive dust mess" - its an unfinished room,a vacuum cleaner and dust sheets will be very fast. You've assumed very worst of worst cases and not much competence, no contractors, none of which is in the OP. – Stilez Oct 04 '21 at 16:15
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    From the original question: "If possible, I'd prefer to keep the 1-gang metal box as it already has anchors drilled into the wall." The OP doesn't want to do more work than necessary. Also, from my reading of the question, the OP doesn't seem to be the most highly skilled DIYer (apologies if incorrect, that's just my impression). I've done a ton of work on my house, including building an attached garage (from the concrete up). I don't think this is something I'd attempt, so I don't consider it a "beginner to intermediate" DIY job. – FreeMan Oct 04 '21 at 16:21
  • However, I'll agree with @jay613 that it is a valid answer, maybe just not appropriate for this situation. I have retracted my down vote. – FreeMan Oct 04 '21 at 16:25
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    @FreeMan I've come round to the idea that an answer that raises the bar, is more ambitious, or achieves a nice result by standards that are not directly described in the question, is a good answer even it doesn't appeal to me. I've written such answers myself. – jay613 Oct 04 '21 at 17:31
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Out of the box idea - replace the whole switch and conduit with an EnOcean wireless, batteryless switch.

Paired with a receiver in the underfloor of the main floor would allow a clean look, without needing to cut into the wall.

The benefit of EnOcean is that the wireless switch does not require batteries as it uses the kinetic energy of the switch being pressed to transmit the signal.

G Ritchie
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