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Forgive me - first timer here, but I'm striking out on Google searches.

I live in a condo with central venting for the bathrooms & kitchen. The microwave is installed above the stove and hooks into said system. There's an AC current switch (model EC-1420N) leading to what I believe is a step down transformer (no distinguishing model or make listed) that then feeds a Honeywell damper Operator (model M847D1004)e outlet power feeds the AC switch with hot to L1 and the neutral runs through hole in the switch.

T1 off the switch feeds the transformer which I assume steps down voltage & watts as the damper switch is rated at 24VAC, 60Hz, 6W.

Something is not functioning, as the damper is not opening when I turn on the fan so no air is actually leaving my domicile.

I'm was getting 1 amp of current through the center of the switch, so I stripped back more wire & looped it again to get 2 amps. Still nothing.

The odd thing is, with the vent off or on, I'm measuring 120v off both leads of the AC switch. Meaning it's always closed & always sending power to the (what I assume) transformer, then to the damper switch.

I tried disconnecting the lead going to the transformer, but that didn't do anything either.

The wires from the transformer to the damper switch measure 10ths of amps, so not enough to power it.

Pictures here: https://i.stack.imgur.com/XQMNx.jpg

Nate
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    I’m voting to close this question because you chose the wrong stack exchange. This one is for electronic design. You should ask this over at https://DIY.stackexchange.com – DoxyLover Mar 30 '21 at 06:10
  • looped it again to get 2 amps ... why would you think that making a loop in the wire would increase the current? – jsotola Mar 30 '21 at 06:45
  • I'm baffled why there is a current switch. All that needs to be done is put the fan motor and transformer (to the damper) in parallel. Are you getting 24 VAC from the transformer when the fan is on? If not, it must be the current switch. – Steve Wellens Mar 30 '21 at 14:36
  • Is that 120V measurement across the switch, or from each terminal of the switch to neutral or ground? – ThreePhaseEel Mar 30 '21 at 23:29
  • @DoxyLover - thanks! noob here... – Nate Mar 31 '21 at 19:58
  • @SamGibson - as I understand it, the AC switch sends power to the transformer which then opens the damper. It's activated when only current from the fan is going through the switch. – Nate Mar 31 '21 at 23:42
  • @ThreePhaseEel - The 120 is from the white cord (from the wall) to either side of the AC switch. That's odd to me. Makes me think it's constant on, and is supposed to turn off when the fan is activated which would then open the damper? I'm very confused by this setup. – Nate Mar 31 '21 at 23:42
  • @jsotola, I was only getting 1A originally and the AC switch is rated to activate at 1.2A-40A. BY looping it, I was able to get 2A through it. – Nate Mar 31 '21 at 23:44
  • @Nate - Hi, I'm not sure why you wrote a comment to me. All I did was help migrate this question to here i.e. to the place with the most experts in home electrical wiring on SE. I don't have any knowledge of USA house wiring myself, so I cannot help with any technical aspects. I have deleted my previous comment (explaining how you needed to join this part of SE) to avoid any confusion. Thanks. – SamGibson Apr 01 '21 at 00:09
  • @SteveWellens - as I understand it, the AC switch sends power to the transformer which then opens the damper. It's activated when only current from the fan is going through the switch – Nate Apr 01 '21 at 05:04
  • @SamGibson, sorry, that was meant for Steve Wellens – Nate Apr 01 '21 at 05:04

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