Ultrasonic Cleaner Considerations

Question

I am in the process of replacing the ultrasonic cleaner at the shop. The main reason is the size as we can't put 2 pieces cranks (or at least their gears) so that they are fully immersed, larger MTB cassettes either. There are other considerations as well.

Current machine: 2.5L cheap Amazon cleaner, probably 40Khz, with heater, cleaning power probably 65W (so 26W per L).

Things to consider: Size: As stated already, it should be able to accommodate 2 pieces cranks, Shimano 24mm style, so that the gears are fully immersed. Is a 6L model generally large enough?

Power: here I have yet to find any baseline for bicycle parts cleaning purposes. Everything seems to be 30watts per liter. I do not know if watts per litter matters the same as the tank gets bigger. We do scrap off the bulk of dirt before putting parts in the machine.

Cleaning Solution: We use Muc-Off transmission cleaner in the shop. At the moment it is uncut in the machine, but that can lead to parts finish blemishing if left too long. Other than that, it works well, but it might be uselessly powerful. Any advice based on experienced is welcomes.

Heating: everywhere I looked, heating seems important and improves the results. Again, any input from experience, is welcomed, although machines without heating capability are rare.

Feel free to share any other experiences with ultrasonic cleaners!

Answer 1

I have such a cleaner, though smaller than yours. I think no matter how big you choose, there will always be something else you want to put in it. So get the biggest one that will fit in the space you have available.

If you deal with a lot of dirty things, then a parts washer might be a good addition. That's a sink with a pump connected to a hose that pushes warm water and cleaner to a hand piece, that has stiff-ish bristles to help move dirt. Then put the rinsed part in the ultrasonic cleaner for a cycle.

Heating definitely helps, but as you say there's no chance of finding a non-heated one.

Ideally you want the parts off the bottom too - which is why many have a suspended wire tray to hold the parts. The bottom of the tank is where the transducers are welded and have to be unencumbered to enable the sound waves to vibrate the metal and enter into the liquid.

Wattage should rise as tank capacity rises - so a 2L 30W cleaner has about the same effective power as a 6L 90W cleaner but takes larger parts.

Liquid - I generally use water with 10% of degreaser and that's enough for one dirty part. I will change the liquid when new parts go in. Remember you can also use plastic clip-seal bags to hold your part in less cleaner, and then float the bag in water in the tank. This saves on fluid and fumes.

If your cleaner lacks a lid, make one. The fumes of cleaners are not good for you, and it helps keep the heat in too.

For other ideas, talk to engineering companies local to you. Auto mechanics, restoration specialists, instrument repair (both gauges and musical !) You're clearly happy with its performance so far, the upgrade is for capacity, not effectiveness. I guess you'll keep using the current cleaner for smaller parts until it stops working too.