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I'm in the process of upgrading a well loved 1970s steel frame from a downtube shifter system to a modern 'brifter' system.

Through this process I've had to look at many disparate sources to get information from all over the internet. Generally, LBS have been rather sketchy about this - they'd rather sell me a new bike. I think it would be ideal if we could have one question under which we could address as many of the general problems & solutions that the process throws up, and maybe have a collection of resources that someone who wants to follow this process would be able to refer to for more specific problems. I'm going to provide an answer myself, once it's established that the question is valid! My question is:

What potential issues will I need to consider when modernizing a pre-1990s steel frame?

Please note, I am getting brifters. Answers which say 'you'd be better off staying with downtube shifters' are not helpful in the slightest.

7thGalaxy
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    It is going to be a lot of work, especially if you fit a modern hub in the back (you'll have to deform the rear triangle to do it right). You might want to reconsider and keep the downtube shifters, upgrade the components to the top-of-the-line for that era. Downtube shifters, when adjusted properly, are nice and responsive. The only thing I would get rid of are those unsightly brake cables looping high into the air-- replace those with aero brake levers (early-80's tech). – Angelo Jul 03 '14 at 13:05
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    @Angelo Hi Angelo - I've already begun the process, frame has been spread, parts ordered, new braze - ons to take the cables where modern shifters need them, tiagra groupset in the post ;) I'm not interested in people suggesting that I shouldn't do it - it is doable (although a lot of work), and I want this to be a resource to people who want to take on this enjoyable challenge themselves! – 7thGalaxy Jul 03 '14 at 13:31
  • Down tube shifters have a look. If you change the look it is no longer a cool old bike. – paparazzo Jul 03 '14 at 14:18
  • @Blam Hi Blam - the bike already has a mishmash of parts, I have no interest in restoring it to original condition, as I have no idea what that would be! The frame's lovely though, and will remain so. – 7thGalaxy Jul 03 '14 at 14:33
  • Then I suggest you add more to the post. What frame? A picture. Modern 'brifter' could mean a lot - what? Without detail people are going to ask why. – paparazzo Jul 03 '14 at 14:56
  • Only possible issues I can think of is maybe finding an appropriate BB. And, if you're changing wheel size. Aside from that it sounds like a great project to do, good luck – PeteH Jul 03 '14 at 14:58
  • What I am trying to gather is a general list of considerations for modernizing steel frames - a starting point for people who are searching for specifics. As I said in the post, I've surmounted a number of these problems, and I think it'd be useful to gather information into one place. So it doesn't really help to know that it's a 1979 Falcon Reynolds 531 frame. Modern 'brifter' is pretty understandable. As it happens I'm going for shimano, but there will be many similarities with campag or sram. – 7thGalaxy Jul 03 '14 at 14:59
  • You are inconsistent. If you are looking for general considerations then keep down tube is a consideration. If down tube is out of scope because you are going to a brifter system then it is a specific project. – paparazzo Jul 03 '14 at 16:04
  • It really is the rear axle adjustment that is a P.I.T.A. to "do it right". It doesn't just need spreading with a 2x4, it needs to be re-aligned so each side is parallel (http://sheldonbrown.com/forkend-alignment.html), risky and definitely not fun. What's the point of a nice vintage frame if the wheel insertion/removal is ghetto? :-) – Angelo Jul 03 '14 at 16:11
  • @blam No I'm not - my question is based around the general considerations required to upgrade from a downtube system to a brifter system - keeping the downtube shifters is hardly 'modernising' – 7thGalaxy Jul 03 '14 at 17:16
  • @angelo I'm getting them spread as part of the respray/brazing process - letting the pro frame builders do those bits! – 7thGalaxy Jul 03 '14 at 17:17
  • An upgrade to 10 speed with Dura Ace 10 speed down tube shifters is hardly modernizing? – http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/ultegra.asp – paparazzo Jul 03 '14 at 18:24
  • In bicycles, there are no such things as "general considerations" for this topic because it is too broad for this format. – whatsisname Jul 03 '14 at 18:41
  • @7thGalaxy, OK, as long as you're doing it right. :-) It must be a pretty awesome frame to go through all that trouble. Good luck. – Angelo Jul 03 '14 at 18:43
  • @angelo I like it - it was given to me by my aunt, who rode it herself 20 years ago, and it's a decent vintage of frame, and it fits me. So in terms of cost I'm getting a decently specced light tourer/winter trainer for many hours of my time and about £600. – 7thGalaxy Jul 03 '14 at 19:30
  • @whatsisname Do you really think my question, as asked, and as I've begun to answer, is too broad for this format? If so, fine, I'll remove it and take this thread elsewhere. But I think it'd be a useful resource, a place for people like me to start. I'd have loved to have something like this 6 months ago when I began to price up and consider options! – 7thGalaxy Jul 03 '14 at 19:32
  • Your comments and the body of your post are in conflict. You can improve your question by making it more specific, with model information and pictures, etc. – whatsisname Jul 03 '14 at 19:46
  • I might be getting myself confused a little. I would argue that it's fairly pointless to specify model in this question - really I want to craft a question the answer to which will be a starting point for anyone who has an older frame (older than 1990 I've specified as a fairly arbitrary point), who wants to add newer equipment to their bike. What challenges are there in this process, and where might they start looking to learn how to overcome them. What issues that they might not have thought of will come to light. – 7thGalaxy Jul 03 '14 at 19:49
  • As long as that general issue is not they want they want to stay with down tube shifters. – paparazzo Jul 04 '14 at 01:27
  • @7thGalaxy: I understand what you want the question to be, the problem is that it is too broad for this format. Bicycle components are hardly standardized and old frames can have roughly a gazillion possibility of things that need to be considered depending on what the person wants to do. For "general considerations", read sheldon brown. Otherwise, this format is for specific questions and answers. – whatsisname Jul 04 '14 at 03:56
  • Can a mod rule on this please? Sheldon Brown doesn't cover any of this except the frame spreading. I disagree that it is too broad for the format, cf "http://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/17248/best-practices-for-commuting-with-rack-panniers" or "http://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1771/switching-parts-to-a-new-frame/1783#1783" which is similar in scope. – 7thGalaxy Jul 04 '14 at 07:38

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I think it depends on your frame, I have a 1973 Peugeot UO-8 which I replaced the 27inch wheels with 700 28CC and even replaced the handle bars with modern alu bars from MEC. The seat is now a Brooks and because the seat post tubes on french bikes are smaller I had to use a BMX chromoly post. My bottom bracket is a new square one from Velo-Orange instead of the cotter cranks of old. I decided to go with a flip flop hub but it would easily accomodate a 10 speed cassette. I installed modern TekTro brakes to replace the original Maffac whcih where truly appalling. And altthough I am sure there is a way to convert the down tub shifters, you would be better off sticking with newer shifter at the same location.

I upgraded and converted my steel frame becuase it is so rare that I find a bike that fits nicely and I really wanted a steel frame for commuting. You might just be going to the wrong LBS. I went to two awesome shops in MTL that where quite please to help out with this project bike. I do have to warn you that older parts for French bikes are not cheap. In total it cost me about $300 to convert the bike and I propbably spend another $200-300 a year on it in parts, tires, chains and BB (fixie is murder on the BB).

Good Luck and have fun with it.

JohnnyCanuck
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I've got the following sorted so far, so here are some answers about the first part of the process for me. Next up will be installing the groupset.

Wheels:

27 inch wheels are slightly narrower in width, and greater in rim diameter than the closest modern standard, 700c. In order to fit a modern 700c wheel you will have to worry about two things:

  • The spacing of the frame will have to be changed. This can be done at home, Sheldon Brown has a page describing the process here. Alternately, you can get a LBS to set it for you (potentially more accurately)
  • You will need 4mm longer 'arms' on the brakes. Long drop brakes might be long enough - otherwise tektro do some extra long drop brakes. Sometimes you can file the slit in the arms a little bit, if it's very close.

Bottom Bracket:

You will want to check what size your frame takes - in my case, British standard seems easy enough to find still. Some things don't change! You will want a BB which is compatible with whatever groupset you are putting on the bike.

Handlebars:

Some older handlebars won't take modern shifters/brake housings happily. You can convert from an old style 1 inch quill stem into a modern system with this bit of kit if you want to go that way.

Cable routing:

You might want a set of cable stops on the downtube, around where your shifters once were. These might require some additional brazing. The cable routing around the bottom bracket might also need some work - I got these done by a custom bike builder. It wasn't cheap, but peace of mind that I was getting everything necessary made up for that.

7thGalaxy
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