I can connect to a remote ftp server in Finder using the syntax ftp://username@host/path and then supplying the password. I get to see the files in the remote directory and can read them. However I do not seem to have write access to these files. Finder also does not display permissions for them except rather confusingly via Get Info:
The username used for the remote server is not the same as my username on the Mac. Could this be the problem?
I normally access the ftp server from a Linux machine without these difficulties.

ftptool is much better, but (of course) doesn't support mounting the server folder. – Gordon Davisson May 03 '22 at 18:33man mount_ftp:The rdonly option will be set even if it was not specified because mount_ftp does not allow files to be opened with write access on servers.If you wish to use theftpcommand, you will have to install it yourself, for example thetnftpHomebrew package (https://brew.sh), asftpis not included in macOS since 10.13 High Sierra. – jaume May 03 '22 at 19:03I note that if you use Finder to access a remote ftp server and you then modify a remote file by some other means, Finder will not show you the updated file unless you unmount the connection and then reconnect.
– reallydismayed May 04 '22 at 12:10